Kapadokya

Kapadokya seyahatimden yeni döndüm ve sıcağı sıcağına bu yazıyı hazırladım. Kapadokya hep ilgimi çeken bir yer olmuştu fakat bir türlü seyahat mümkün olmamıştı. Bu seneye kısmetmiş. Öncelikle bölge, karasal bir iklime sahip olduğundan gündüzleri sıcak, geceleri serin oluyor. Bunu dikkate alarak tedbirli gitmenizi tavsiye ederim. Özellikle yeraltı şehirleri gayet serin oluyor.

Kapadokya’ya gittiğimde ilk istikamet Devrent Vadisi oldu. Burada bulunan peri bacalarını ilginç kılan ise çeşitli hayvanlara benzetilmesi. Örneğin fotoğrafta görünen yan yana 3 peri bacasının bir deveyi andırması. Hatta bu peri bacalarına “devebacası” da denirmiş.

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Devrent Vadisi

Bir sonraki istikametim Zelve Vadisi oldu. Zelve, Kapadokya bölgesinin en eski ve en uzun kullanılan yerleşim yeridir. Hıristiyanlığın bölgede yayılmaya başladığı yer olarak bilinir.

Zelve Vadisi
Zelve Vadisi

Bölgede hıristiyanlık döneminin sonra ermesinden sonra 1952 yılına kadar yerleşim yeri olarak kullanılmış. Erozyonun artması ve kayaların tehlike arz etmesi nedeniyle Zelve halkı bölgeden ayrılmak zorunda kalmış. Vadide küçük bir cami de bulunmaktadır. İlginç bir mimarisi var. Görülmeye değer.

Cami ve köy meydanı
Caminin dış görünüşü
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Caminin içi

Ayrıca bölge sıkça rastlanılan yapılardandır güvercinlikler. Bölge çiftçilerinin üzüm bağlarından daha fazla verim almak için güvercin gübresi kullanması geleneği vardır. Bu sebeple pek çok güvercinlik inşa edilmiştir.

Güvercinlikler
Güvercinlikler

Bir sonraki istikamet Paşabağ Vadisi idi. Mantar biçimindeki peri bacaları bu bölgede yer almaktadır.

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Günün son istikameti Göreme Açık Hava Müzesi oldu. M.S. 4. yüzyıldan 13. yüzyıla kadar yoğun bir şekilde manastır hayatına ev sahipliği yapmış bölgedir. Kaya bloklar içine oyulmuş kiliseler, şapeller, yemekhaneler ve oturma alanları bulunmaktadır.  Manastır eğitim sisteminin başladığı yer olarak kabul ediliyor.

1980 darbesinden sonra Kapadokya kelimesi Yunanca olduğu gerekçesi ile yasaklanarak bölgeye “Göreme ve çevresi” adı verilmiş. İşin trajikomik yanı ise; Kapadokya kelimesinin Yunanca ile alakası yokken, Göreme kelimesinin Yunanca’dan dilimize geçmiş bir kelime olmasıydı.

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İkinci günün ilk istikameti Ağzıkarahan Kervansarayı oldu. Kervansaraylar ticaret yolları üzerinde kurulan konaklama yerleridir. Selçuklu dönemine ait olan bu kervansarayın yapımına 1231 yılında başlanmış olup 1239 yılında tamamlanmıştır.

Kervansarayların bulunduğu bölgedeki halka hem avantajı hem dezavantajı bulunmaktaymış. Avantajı, kervansarayın bulunduğu bölgedeki halktan vergi istenmezmiş. Dezavantajı ise, kervansarayın bir haydut saldırısına uğrayıp yağmalanması durumunda, yağmalanan mallar bölgedeki halktan istenmesi. Ayrıca kervansaraya gelip konaklamak 3 gün ücretsiz, 3 günden sonra ücretliymiş.

Kervansarayın avlusu
Kervansarayın avlusu

Bir sonraki istikametim Ihlara Vadisi oldu. Kapadokya bölgesinin en bilindik yürüyüş vadisidir. Hasan Dağı’ndan püsküren lavların soğuması sonucu ortaya çıkan çatlaklar ve çökmeler sonucu oluşmuştur. 14 km uzunluğundadır. Dünyanın en büyük ikinci kanyonudur. Fakat içinde insanın yaşadığı en büyük kanyondur.

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Vadi içerisinde pek çok kilise bulunmaktadır. Bunlardan biri vadinin girişinde bulunan merdivenlerin bittiği yerde bulunan Ağaçaltı Kilisesi‘dir. İncilden sahneler kilisenin duvarlarına işlenmiştir.

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Ihlara Vadisi’nden sonra Narlıgöl Krater Gölü‘ne gittim. 2500 metrekare alan ve 70 metre derinliği sahip bir göl.

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Bir sonraki istikametim olan Derinkuyu Yeraltı Şehri bölgede tespit edilmiş 200’e yakın yeraltı şehriden biridir. Bir yeraltı şehrinin tüm özelliklerini taşır. (Ahır, kilise, yemekhane, kiler vb.) Yeraltı şehrinin derinliği yaklaşık 85 metredir. Geçmişte sık sık çeşitli saldırılara maruz kalan bölge insanlarının geçici olarak sığınmalarını sağlamak için yapılmış.

Aşağıdaki fotoğraftaki yer mezarlık girişi. Oldukça dar ve karanlık. Yeraltı şehrinde iken ölenleri geçici süreyle buraya koyuyorlarmış. Tehlike geçtikten sonra ölüleri yüzeye çıkararak gömüyorlarmış.

IMG_2103

Ve Kapadokya’da bir günü daha bitirmiş oldum.

Ertesi gün, bölgenin en yüksek yeri olan Uçhisar Kalesi‘ne gittim. Bölgeye çok hakim bir noktada olması nedeniyle oldukça stratejik bir kaledir.

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Kalenin zirvesine çıktığınızda Kapadokya ve Erciyes Dağı‘nı çerçeveleyen muhteşem bir manzara ile karşı karşıya kalıyorsunuz.

IMG_2156

 

Daha önce bahsettiğim gibi güvercinlerin gübresi bölge halkı çok önemli olduğundan pek çok güvercinlik bulunmaktadır. Bunlardan biri de Güvercinlik Vadisi.

IMG_2220

 

Böylelikle Kapadokya seyahatimi bitirmiş oldum. Çok güzel bir seyahat oldu. Sizlere tavsiyem eğer ilk kez Kapadokya’ya gidiyorsanız mutlaka bölgede bulunan bir tur firması ile bölgeyi gezmeniz. Sevgiyle..

 

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